Last year we removed all the wood trim which split and came off the edges. This year we need to repair any damage in the canvas and install no-slip.
This is what it looked like when we arrived this year. All the wood has turned black due to mold growing on the linseed oil. As you can see even the teak oil grew mold on the dorade boxes. The brow looks especially shitty this year. The northwest is a wet environment during the winter and most of the summer. The roof also had beads of sap stuck to it. When we applied "Totally Awesome" cleaner it dissolved them into streams of yellow. Some had to be scraped off with a razor blade. As you can see in the background the Bristol Finish held up well on the railing.
Roof all cleaned. Sanding the Brow will be fun !	Dorade boxes all done. There are 6 coats of Bristol Finish on the teak boxes.
Brow is sanded ready to Bristol Finish. I have sanded this fricken thing every year since I installed it.	Ready to put on the no-slip which is just sand sprinkled over wet paint.
Fresh coat of paint with sand sprinkled on it.	First coat done. Sand work is looking good. It's hard to keep sand off the clear areas because the sand gets stuck on the paint roller. So I'll need to take off these little bits of sand before the next coat.
All done !! 3 coats over the sand!	Brow all done ! 5 coats of Bristol Finish. Notice the new scool lanyard for the ship's bell.
Got tired of the hatch leaking. The black silicone kept coming loose and allowing water into the gap between the upright board with handles and the hatch itself. So I decided to get rid of the upright board and let the water sheen off the hatch.	Upright board cut off, now to fair it out.
Sanded, ready for repairs then Bristol Finish. (8 hours work !!) The edges were rotted through, need to rebuild it.	Windshield frames, 6 coats of Bristol Finish.
Hatch curved top sides were all rotten. I could either fix them or remove both of them clean it up and start over. I decided to start over and use the plywood kerf bending trick to build new tops. Here is an example of the kerfing.	This picture shows the stages of the rebuild. The rear area is all cleaned up, and the new top is kerfed for bending. The front section is fitted an scewed in.
The next step is to wet the kerfs with water and apply gorilla glue, which foams up and fills the gaps. Then put them back in place over plastic. After a day of hardening the tops should keep their shape.	This is the hatch base all cleaned up and the rotted edges glued up with resin glue and covered with thin backer boards. Now to seal with latex paint.
Underneath the domes sealed with a little latex paint.	All painted, ready for insulation.
Insulation in place.	Lids installed embedded in black silicone. Ready for a top coat.
Screw holes filled with bondo wood filler, then taped off and coated with epoxy to seal the plywood.
Below decks storage. I cut the shelves out of plastic lattice and placed them on the frames. This gives me double the storage space below the deck.	Also used the lattice to build fences to place the engine and fuel bags of goodies near the engine.
I put my big ass on this board a while ago and broke it in half. I finally fixed it.